Route Setters: Design and Grade Boulder Problems
In groups of four, students create boulder problems by taping the holds that can be used, test them, and another group grades them by difficulty. It builds movement creativity, analysis of climbing moves and respect for others' work.
How to play
- Divide the wall into 6 sections with mats underneath and assign one to each group of 4; give each group its own tape color.
- Take 3 minutes to explain problem rules: a two-hand start hold, a finish hold matched with both hands, and a maximum of 8 moves.
- Each group designs a problem in its section by taping the valid holds and writes its name and sequence on paper (8 minutes, climbing to test it).
- Groups rotate to the next section and every member tries the other group's problem; they grade it 1 to 5 and write one suggestion (6 minutes).
- Rotate once more to test and grade a second problem (5 minutes).
- Close with 3 minutes where each group reads its feedback and decides whether to tweak the problem.
Rules
- Only one climber per section; everyone else watches and spots from off the mat.
- Hands stay below 2.5 m (8 ft) and climbers down-climb instead of jumping off.
- Nobody removes or moves another group's tape.
- Feedback is about the problem, never about the person who set it.
Variations
Easier
Limit problems to 5 moves and allow feet anywhere.
Standard
Problems of up to 8 moves with both hands and feet marked.
Harder
Require each problem to have a clear crux move (a cross-through, a lock-off or a foot switch).
Adaptations
- Limited mobility: participate as setter and judge, or set low traverse problems.
- Autism or shyness: provide a step-by-step setting template and allow written feedback.
- Lower strength: assign sections with big holds and no overhang.
Learning goals
- Design climbing sequences that fit one's own abilities.
- Analyze the difficulty of a move and justify a grade.
- Give and receive suggestions respectfully.
Equipment for a class of 25
- bouldering wall: 1
- mats: 10
- rolls of masking tape: 6
- markers: 6
Teacher tip
Use painter's tape that leaves no residue and take it down at the end. Watch for dynamic jump moves in student problems, since they cause most falls.
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